TB TB Textile SourcingEU ⇄ Bangladesh · apparel sourcing

Majhkhaner dam

Ekjon Bangladeshi kormi bidesh e ek din o kaj korar age i shekhankar ek bochorer beshi ayer soman rin e pore jete paren. European kreta ar Bangladeshi karkhanar majhkhane o emon kichu layer thake, jar dam o kothao publish hoy na. Majhkhaner dam koto — ar keno sei number ta dekha eto kothin. Nicher mul number gulo baire r karo onuman na; Bangladesh er nijer maap.

2025 sale kajer jonno bidesh e gechen 11 lakh er kichu beshi Bangladeshi. Oi chakri gulor ekta o shuru howar age i taka geche thik ulto dike.

Koto taka, seta motamoter bishoy na — ar keno na, seta gora tei bole newa dorkar. Recruitment cost holo United Nations er ekta development indicator — SDG 10.7.1 — ar jesob desh ei survey chaliyeche, tader moddhe matro char ta desh nijeder result official data hishebe publish koreche. Bangladesh sei char tar ekta. Mane, nicher number gulo Bangladesh ke niye baire r karo onuman na. Egulo Bangladesh er nijer maap, Bangladesh er nijer i publish kora. Je desh gulo ei khoroch mape i na, tader niye emon ekta lekha lekha i jeto na.

Ekta publish kora dam ache, ar seta i asol dam na

Indicator ta ekta i prosno kore: gontobbo te pouche ekjon migrant ke koto mash kaj korte hoy, sekhane jete ja khoroch hoyeche ta tule ante? 2022 saler Labour Force Survey e — publish hoyeche 2023 saler October e — uttor chilo 14.6 mash — purush der khetre 15.1, nari der khetre 7.8 — gor recruitment cost 381,967 taka ar bidesh e gor mashik ay 26,172 taka dhore.

Ekoi table aro ekbhabe kata jay. Jara kono class pass koren ni, tara diyechen shobar cheye kom — 311,237 taka — ar seta tule ante tader legeche shob cheye beshi somoy: 18.7 mash. Ekjon graduate diyechen 492,799 taka, ar ta tule enechen 13.5 mash e. Jader porashona shob cheye kom, tara taka den shob cheye kom, ar sei takar jonno opekkha koren shob cheye beshi mash.

Kagoje kolome er konota i onioyontrito na. Bangladesh er ministry 2017 sale gontobbo onujayi shorbochcho migration cost bedhe diyechilo — Saudi Arabia r jonno 165,000 taka — ar sei ongko erpor ar shongshodhon hoyni. Tar biporite oi ekoi survey mepeche, sekhane jete manush asole koto diyechen: 388,210 taka. Aini shorbochcho shimar dui ar ek-tritiyangsho gun.

Er shob cheye tibro rup ta Bangladesh–Malaysia corridor e. Dui sorkarer moddhe ekta memorandum e recruitment fee bedhe dewa hoyechilo US$420-e, ar 2021 sale corridor ta mepe gobeshok ra gor peyechen US$3,900 — gobeshonar nijer bhashay, "chuktir ongkor proay 9 gun beshi". 2025 saler December e Bangladeshi report eo cholti bazar dor dhora hoyeche nirdharito harer tin theke char gun.

Tahole number ta publish kora ache. Sudhu seta i sei number na ja aday kora hoy — ar jini taka ta dichhen, tar hate publish kora number take karjokor korar kono upay nei.

Ar taka ta dhar kora

Proay karo hate i taka ta thake na. Bangladesh er 2023 saler socio-economic survey te dekha geche, khoroch metate 58 percent migrant dhar koren, ar World Bank dekhche, shob migrant er proay ek-tritiyangsho bank ba NGO na, boron onioyontrito mohajon er kach theke taka nen. Malaysia corridor e jatrar taka eseche proay soman bhage poribarer rin, jomi bikri ar sonchoy theke — ar jara ditiyo bar jachhen, tader khetre ekok shob cheye boro utsho chilo jomi bikri. Bekti na, poribarer maap e hishab korle World Bank bolche, US$4,000-er beshi khoroch mane rowna howar age ekta migrant poribarer proay trish mash er ay.

Ekta poribar ja kichu ay kore, tar arai bochor — prothom beton er age i dewa.

Mane kaj shuru howar age i rin toiri hoye jay. Ar ei gontobbo gulor beshirbhag e je sponsorship bebostha cholu — World Bank er bornonay jekhane ekjon migrant ke employer er sponsorship er odhine thakte hoy, ar contract shesh howa mane fire asha — sekhane keu pouche jodi dekhen kaj ta take ja bola hoyechilo seta na, tork korar jayga tar khub kom. Er procholito rup tar ekta nam ILO diyeche: contract deception ar contract substitution. Kagojpotro thake onno kothao, taka itimoddhe i khoroch hoye geche, ar fire ashar hishab ta nirmom.

Eta kono desh niye golpo na. Eta golpo kokhon taka hatbodol hoy, ar tokhon dam ta ke dekhte peten — ta niye.

Je ordhek ta khoto na

Ekhane i theme gele seta oshot hobe, karon ei ekoi sidhanto kaje o lage.

Kom-dokkho Bangladeshi kormi ra bidesh e desher tulonay proay char gun beshi ayer asha korte paren — ei karone i bochore dosh lakh manush emon ekta sidhanto nen, ja baire theke beporowa dekhay othocho na; World Bank er return-migrant survey e dekha jay, 88 percent shesh porjonto ja khoroch hoyechilo tar cheye beshi tule anen. Ar taka ta deshe ashe. 2025-26 orthobochore remittance record US$35.56 billion chueche, proay 17 percent bere — ekoi bochore ready-made garment export jekhane US$38.7 billion, ar seta komchilo. Bangladesh er migrant kormi ra ekhon deshe pathan proay tototai, gota garment industry jotota export kore — ar seta jay karo balance sheet e na, sorasori poribarer ghore.

Migration kono tragedy na. Ekta doridro poribar ja korte pare, tar moddhe eta shob cheye karjokor kaj gulor ekta. Thik ei karone i dhokar khoroch ta guruttopurno: tader shamne thaka shob cheye bhalo rasta tar opore i bosano toll eta.

Ekoi jatra, dui dame

Ekhane i sei totthho, ja tork ta mimangsha kore dey.

Olpo kichu placement hoy government theke government e — dui rashtro sorasori bishoy ta shamlay, majhkhane kono private intermediary thake na. Korea r Employment Permit System e ekjon migrant den proay US$900; ekoi gontobbo te private intermediary er madhome gele US$4,000-er beshi. Palm-oil er kajer jonno Bangladesh–Malaysia chuktir odhine proay US$500. Sei ekoi kaje private path e: proay US$4,500.

Ekoi desh, ekoi kaj, ekoi kormi — ar Malaysia r khetre noy gun dam. Oi programme er evaluation e dekha geche, eta migration cost aat gun komiyeche ar tin bochorer probash jibon er net ay bariyeche 87 percent.

Ei scheme gulo chhoto i theke jay, karon duita government nirdishto shongkhok jaygar beshi shamlate pare na — ar thik se karone i shesh number ta i guruttopurno. Oi shorte jokhon 30,000 pod khola hoyechilo, apply korechilen joggo proay 14 lakh manush.

Mane khoroch ta prokritir kono niyom na. Durotto na, dokkhota na, ticket er dam na, labour market er obostha o na. Eta nirbhor kore majhkhan ta kibhabe sajano, ar tar dam ta emon kothao nirdharito ache ki na, jekhane ekjon manush takiye dekhte paren.

Somossha majhkhan na. Somossha majhkhaner oswochchhota.

Eta shabdhane bola dorkar, karon shohoj songskoron ta bhul. Intermediary ra barti keu non. World Bank er nijer bibhoron eo ache, onanushthanik sub-agent ra — dalal ra — "migrant der recruitment agent er songe jukto korar guruttopurno kaj ta koren", ar manush tader kache jan "astha, noikotto ar shohayota-seba r nagaler karone". Bideshi labour market e pouchanor ar kono poth nei emon ekta grame eta shottikarer ekta seba, ar seta dichhen emon ekjon, jake poribar ta chene.

Somossha ta aro shonkirno, ar aro kothin. Gontobbo rashtro gulo ain kore: Bahrain, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia ar United Arab Emirates — shobar ain e i kormir kach theke recruitment fee newa nishiddho. Kintu recruitment fee niye ILO r ditiyo boishwik study jemon bolche, oi nishedhaggya gulo "utsho deshe howa khoroch er khetre proay i projojjo hoy na". Niyom ta shimante eshe thame; ar taka ta newa hoy shimanter onno pashe, emon ekjoner kach theke jar hate seta kono kichur songe miliye dekhar upay nei. World Bank er hishabe, sudhu intermediary khoroch i gore migrant proti US$2,000 — tini ja den tar ordhek er o beshi.

Eta i eke adayjoggo kore tole. Majhkhaner ostittwo na. Boron ei bepar ta je, dui prante dariye thaka keu i dekhte pan na, bhitore ki newa holo.

Ami Bangladesh e shat bochor garment karkhana chaliyechi, ar je business e ami kaj kori tar goron ta o ekoi — jodio ojon ek na, ar tulona ta korar age i seta bole newa uchit. Ekta commercial margin kono poribarer jomi na. Tobu ekta European brand ar ekta Bangladeshi karkhanar majhkhane sadharonoto koyekta pokkho thake, ar kormi ja dekhte pan na, kreta o ta dekhte pan na. Tini janen tini koto dichhen. Karkhana jane se koto pachhe. Majhkhaner jayga tar akar keu i jane na, ar jigges korar obosthane o keu nei. Oi pokkho gulor keu keu tader newa protita taka orjon koren — ekjon bhalo agent janen kon karkhana October er delivery date dhore rakhte parbe ar kon sample er mane ache. Kintu totthho ta bishesh keu atke rakhche na. Eta asole kothao i nei.

Puro dam diye o, tobu kono boidho obosthan nei

Ar ekta dhap puro bebostha ta bondho kore dey.

Emon ekjon sponsor o visa bikri korte paren, jar dewar moto kono kaj nei. Er ekta nam ache — free visa, ba visa trading — ar official bornona gulo ekebare nirlipto: kormi ra "nijer work visa r sponsorship er jonno ekjon employer ke niyomito fee den, othocho kaj koren onno employer der hoye", ar kichu company visa r taka ney kintu kono "boidho kormoshongsthan dey na, fole kormi theke jan kono aini obosthan ba surokkha chara". ILO r footnote ta i shob cheye poripati shongya: emon ekta visa, ja "khoroch mukto na, employer mukto."

Mane puro dam ta dewa jay emon kichur jonno, ja asole okarjokor. Ar sekhane pouchanor poth kebol eta i na. ILO r regional white paper e sadharon poth gulor talika ache: employer je permit nobayon koren na, passport ja ferot dewa hoy na, bodlir kagoj ja kokhono jomai pore ni, absconding (polatok) bole ekta mittha report. Jesob kormi onijomito hoye poren, tader beshirbhag i, nothite lekha ache, "ta hon nijer niyontroner baire, nijer kono dosh chara i" — tobu tara "greptar, atok ar ferot pathanor mukhe poren."

Tarpor ashe sei ongsho, ja shob kichu thik kore dey: emon ekjon manush obhijog korte paren na, karon obhijog ta i take unmukto kore dey. Official report e emon kormi der kotha ache, jara sponsor chere giyechilen ebong "ferot pathanor bhoye kortripokkho ke nirjatoner kotha janate chan ni". 2018-19 sale survey kora Bangladeshi return migrant der moddhe 19 percent ke ferot pathano ba kortripokkher kache nalisher humki dewa hoyechilo, ar 12 percent er deshe ferar karon chilo permit ba visa shongkranto bohishkar.

Sadharon fraud thekay kretar apotti korar khomota. Ekhane ponner truti ta i take chup koriye dey, jini tar dam diyechen — ar se karone i eta bikri kora nirapod. Ei business er kototuku ebhabe chole, ta keu mapeni: chorcha ta nothibhukto, tar akar na.

Amar kache eta kono bimurto bishoy na, ar ami kibhabe eta jani ta apnake bolte na parar karon ta i ei lekha tar puro bishoy.

Asole ki kora hochhe

Je lekha kebol ekta somossha r nam bole, kono meramoter kotha bole na, seta obhijog. Tai:

Niyom ta age theke i ache. ILO r fair-recruitment guideline er pechone ache Convention No. 181, jar Article 7(1) matro ekta bakko: "Private employment agency kormi der kach theke prottokkho ba porokkho bhabe, puro ba angshik, kono fee ba khoroch aday korbe na." Business er bhashay er rup ta aro chhoto — Dhaka Principles for Migration with Dignity te: kono kormir chakri r jonno taka dewar kotha na.

Kichu kichu egiyeche. 2019 sal theke Qatar choy ta origin country te chouddo ta visa centre khuleche, Bangladesh tar ekta — jekhane ekjon kormi ke shorto gulo bujhiye bola hoy ar tini rowna howar age i nijer asol contract e sign koren — contract substitution tike thake thik eta keu na korar opore i. 2025 saler October er Saudi–Bangladesh recruitment chuktite o rowna howar age documented offer ar contract baddhotamulok. Ar taka ulto dike o geche: ekta remediation programme janachhe, tara 86,000-er beshi kormi ke US$111 million-er beshi ferot pete shohayota koreche.

Shob cheye notun khobor ta dui din er purono. 2026 saler 28 August Bangladesh er probashi kollan montronaloy janiyeche, Malaysia "zero-cost" bhittite 10,000 kormi nite raji hoyeche, ar prothom dol ta jachhe rashtriyo employment company r madhome, "biman bhara ba migration-shongkranto onno kono khoroch chara i". Ekoi bibritite jonogoner uddeshe montronaloyer nirdeshona ta uporer shob kichu fash kore dey: official bigyopti jari na howa porjonto kono taka deben na, kono medical test koraben na, ar passport joma deben na.

Shimaboddhota gulo o ekoi nishwashe bola dorkar. Qatar er visa centre gulor fee todaroki r kono ekhtiyar nei. ILO nothibhukto koreche, fair-recruitment campaign ar gontobbo desher nishedhaggya shottweo Kenyan kormi der dewa khoroch bereche. Ar je company gulor jot 2016 sale shorbotro kormi-prodotto recruitment fee nirmul korte nemechilo, tara nijeder dosh bochor somoy diyechilo; sei somoyshima ei bochore i.

Ain kora ta shosta ordhek. ILO r nijer suparish lokkhobostu tar nam bole dey shob cheye shadamata bhashay: information asymmetry. Lobh na, kono jati na. Ek pokkho ja jane ar onno pokkho ja jante pare — tar moddhekar fank.

Je manush ta chole jachhen, tar jonno shob cheye bhalo uttor

Shesh ekta kotha, ar eta niti na, pochondo.

Eto Bangladeshi keno jan, World Bank er bekkha ta rohossomoy kichu na: proti bochor labour market e dhoka lakh lakh torun ke dharon korar moto druto gotite bhalo formal chakri toiri hochhe na. Migration sei fank ta bhore dey. Tai jader jonno chole jawa i ekmatro hishab jeta mele, tader shongkha ta kono sthir poriman na. Eta ekta folafol — ar folafol onno prante giye bodlano jay.

Ekta gram theke ek ghontar duruttwe ekta sewing unit, sadharon mane sadharon kaj korche — shunte eta kono kichur i uttor mone hoy na. Eta chollish jon manush ke kaj dey, jara noile oi lakh lakher moddhe i thakten. Etake bohugun korun — tate migration er shomadhan hobe na, ar seta chawa o uchit na; char gun er hishab ta ekhono thik, ar remittance bastob. Ja hobe ta holo, sidhanto ta abar sidhanto hoye uthbe — neben emon manush, jara emon ekta number er opor poribarer jomi baji rakhchen na, je number ta keu tader dekhato i na.

Shesh ekta hishab.

Ei bibhoroner kono toll i eka eto boro na je ta niye jhogra kora jay. Bangladesh er nijoswo transparency gobeshok ra 2025 saler October porjonto ek bochore 15,715 ta khanar opor survey chaliye dekhechen, sorkari seba pete ekta poribar shara bochore gore onanushthanik bhabe diyeche 5,124 taka — ekta jhamela, biporjoy na. Boro maap e hishab kore tara jatiyo mot dar koriyechen 126.3 billion taka-y (12,630 crore taka), kebol tara jesob khat dekhechen segulo dhore i. Jesob poribar er mukhomukhi hoyeche, tader 98.1 percent dite baddho hoyeche — ar tader moddhe 81.5 percent bolechhe, seta chara seba ta pawa i jeto na. Prapok hishebe tritiyo shorbadhikbar nam eseche intermediary der; kichu khat e, gobeshok der uposonghar, tader probhab "pratishthanik rup niye feleche." Jekhane ekta poth kebol adha adhi kaj kore, sekhane jini poth ta chenen tini i poth hoye othen — ar tar jonno taka nen.

Keu ja mapeni ta holo, ei akritir ekta toll protita counter e barbar dile ekta desher ki khoroch hoy — udbritto thakle ja hote parto, tar hishabe: aro ekta line, ekta training programme, ekta mojuri. Hostantor ta gona hoyeche. Jougik probhab ta hoy ni, ar ami number ta baniye nebo na. Tar onuposthiti i mul kotha. Majhkhaner dam i ekmatro dam, ja publish korte kauke kokhono baddho kora hoy na.

Majhkhan ta drishyoman korun, tahole majhkhan ke nijer jayga ta orjon korte hobe. Bangladesh er ekta grame ekta recruitment fee er khetre eta jemon shotti, Copenhagen ar Gazipur er majhkhaner ekta sourcing margin er khetre o temon i — ar dui jaygate i ami ekmatro etake i kaj korte dekhechi.

— A.K. · TB Textile Sourcing · Slovenia, EU
(Ekjon European, jini Bangladesh e shat bochor knit karkhana chaliyechen. Uporer protita number publish kora; mul number gulo Bangladesh nije i mepeche.)