Approved sample kono protisruti na.

Oita sudhu ekta bhalo diner chhobi. Lahore er ek manufacturer lab ar machine er majhe sore jawa ekta shade e $15,000 hariyechen — ar je buyer kono din hotash kora carton khulechen, tini ei onubhuti ta onno prante theke bhalo i chenen.

Approved sample kono protisruti na. Oita sudhu ekta bhalo diner chhobi.

Keu ekjon, kono ek shokale — machine gorom, operator monojogi, dyeing bath shanto — jinish ta thik bhabe baniyechilen. Er mullo ache. Eta proman kore je jinish ta banano shombhob. Eta proman kore na je jinish ta banano hobe — charsho bar, onno ek soptahe, onno bath e, onno shift e.

Ei soptahe Lahore er ek manufacturer sei shikkha ta prokash korechen, jeta beshirbhag manush chepe jan.

Deltara Sports er Zaheer Abbas ek exhibition e ek Chinese fabric supplier er sathe dekha koren, factory ghure dekhen, setup dekhen ar egonor siddhanto nen. Fabric ar colour standard approve korar age prai dui mash ar tin-char round sampling lage. Tini prai $15,000 invest koren.

Poytallish din pore bulk ashe — ar shade approved sample er sathe mile na.

Tini bishoy ta tolen. Je uttor pan, ei bebshar shobai seta shunechen: “Porer lot e thik kore debo. Aro ektu boro order din, amra samle nebo.”

Cholti lot totokkhone banano hoye gechhe. Kapor ta ajo tar dead stock e pore ache.

Tar nijer siddhanto tai nayyo, ar seta shobar age bola dorkar: eta China ke niye golpo na. China r textile supply chain prithibir onnotomo shoktishali. Ei ghotona ja dekhay ta holo — supply chain er shokti ar factory r bhitorer process control shompurno alada duita jinish.

Je ordhek ta amader nijer diker jonno oswosti kor

Amra sourcing er kaj kori. Amader founder Bangladesh e sat bochor knit factory chaliyechen. Tai chalak kono kotha bolar age kothin kotha ta shoja bole ni.

Oi bakko ta — porer lot e thik kore debo, ektu boro order din — tini nijer factory r bhitorei shunechen.

Eta Chinese bakko na. Bangladeshi, Pakistani, Turkish ba Portuguese bakko o na. Maal jokhon banano hoye gechhe ar taka jokhon khoroch hoye gechhe, tokhon supplier eta i bolen — karon aj sotti bolar khoroch pichiye deoar khoroch er cheye beshi. Eta kono jatir boishishtho na. Eta chaap er shobdo.

Fole ei ghotonay ekta chup chap oshadharon bepar ache: ekjon manufacturer er sathe thik seta i ghotlo, ja manufacturer ra brand der sathe koren. Lahore e jini emon kapor khulchen ja tar approved rong er na, ar Copenhagen e jini emon knitwear er carton khulchen ja tar approved posak na — dujoner obhiggota ek, kebol ekoi chain er dui biporit prante theke.

Eta obhijog na. Gota golper shobcheye kajer kotha eta i — karon er mane, je sringkhola eta thekay seta dui dike i kaj kore, ar jini ekbar bhul prante darriyechen tini shonge shonge bujhen keno eta jorruri.

Shade ta ashole kothay haralo

Bairer karo chokhe samanno onnorokom shobuj chhoto shomossa mone hoy. Bhitore eta rong er shomossa i na. Eta cutting er shomossa, panel melanor shomossa, posaker chehara r shomossa, buyer approval er shomossa — ar seshe inventory r mullo r shomossa. Ek roll theke hata, onno roll theke shamner ongsho — dokaner alo y kandher line e goromil ta spostho dekha jay. Kapor nosto na. Kebol eksathe bebohar joggo na.

Tahole dui mash er sampling periye o approval kibhabe bertho hoy?

Karon approval ta chhilo ekta mot, kono porimap na.

D65 light box e chokhe dekhe deoa shade approval holo ekta promito day-light batir niche neoa manusher motamot. Eta bhalo obbhash, janalar alo y asha niye takanor cheye onek bhalo. Kintu dujon sot, obhiggo manush ekoi swatch ekjon pass ar ekjon fail korate paren — keu i mittha bolchen na. Chokh alada. Klanto chokh aro alada.

Ei tork shurur agei jeta shesh kore dey, ta holo shongkhay standard thik kora:

— approved standard er biporite spectrophotometer er reading, ar order e lekha tolerance — shadharonoto CMC 2:1 scale e ekta ΔE maan — jate pass ar fail hishaber bepar hoy, moter na;
— ek cutting na, puro lot jure shade band. Dye lot pash theke majh theke pash, ar shuru theke shesh porjonto bodlay. Ek tukro swatch kebol oi ek tukro i proman kore;
— ebong ontoto duita alor utso te jachai: D65 ar dokaner alor moto TL84 ba CWF.

Shesh point ta i chup chap shobcheye beshi taka khay. Duita kapor diner alo y nikhut milte pare, othocho je dokane posak ta bikri hobe tar alo y spostho alada dekhate pare. Eke bole metamerism — ekoi rong bhinno dye recipe te pouchhale eta ghote, ar eta karo oshotota na. Oshotota ei shilper joto taka nosto korechhe, metamerism tar cheye beshi korechhe.

Aro ekta fad ache, ar Zaheer er post er comment e ek China-sourcing agent seta shundor kore bolechen: lab dip ba handloom sample approve kora ar bulk dye lot approve kora ek jinish na. Lab dip hoy beaker e. Bulk hoy machine e — bhinno liquor ratio te, bhinno gotite, bhinno kapor er ojon e. Apni je reference approve korben, seta asha uchit sei process theke i jeta ashole cholbe.

Je ordhek ta karigori na, banijjik

Uporer shobta i shabhabik chorcha, ar konota i dami na. Tahole barbar bertho hoy keno?

Karon er beshirbhag thik hoy taka chole jaoar pore.

Ekhanei thik hoy shade er shomossa ta ekta jhamela thakbe, naki $15,000 er write-off hobe. LC taka dey document er biporite, maal er biporite na. Eta chorchar durghotona na, eta i noksha. Shob bank je niyom-boi mane, sei UCP 600 er 5 nombor onucched e lekha ache: bank document niye kaj kore, maal ba seba niye na. Kagoj thik thakle bank taka debe — rong ja i ashuk.

Tai surokkha ta email e thakte pare na. Seta LC r bhitore thakte hobe:

— tritiyo pokkher inspection certificate — BV, SGS, Intertek, dui pokkho jake mane — LC te abossik document hisebe likhun;
— inspection koran mill e, bulk roll er upor, shipment er age — nijer dorjay maal ashar pore na;
— othoba payment bhag korun, jate baki ongsho inspection pass korar pore dite hoy;
— ar approved standard o tar tolerance order ei ullekh korun, jate inspector er hate jachai korar moto bostunistho kichu thake.

Ei dhara ta jog korte lage ekta phone call ar koyekso dollar er inspection. Jog na korar khoroch holo $15,000 ar gudamer ek kon.

Shobcheye purono niyom, ar shobcheye chhoto

Er kichu i chalaki na. Shobta i ekgheye. Shongkha thik kora, band dekha, document er nam lekha, inspector book kora, dye house shuru korar age giye dekha — container charar pore na.

Ekgheye kaj ta i puro kaj. Ei bebsha kothin jinishe bertho hoy na. Bertho hoy shadharon jinishe — ja shobai jane, ar jedin dorkar sedin karo shomoy thake na.

Ar shob koushol er niche ekta niyom ache, ja eshob er cheye o purono ebong chhoto: nijer sathe ja ghotuk tumi chao na, onner sathe ta korona.

Je supplier kono din shade na-melar bhul prante darriyechen, tini thik janen carton kholar shomoy kretar kemon lage. Ei jana ta jekono audit certificate er cheye dami — karon certificate factory ke audit er diner hisebe borna kore, ar approved sample, shurute jemon bolechi, factory ke ekta bhalo diner hisebe borna kore.

Buyer ashole ja kenen, ta holo ditiyo bhalo din. Ar chollishtomo.

Zaheer Abbas ke dhonnobad — khoti lukiye na rekhe prokash korar jonno. Je shilpo kebol nijer joyer kotha bole, se kauke kichu shekhay na.

— A.K. · TB Textile Sourcing · Slovenia, EU
(Ekjon European, jini Bangladesh e knit factory chaliyechen — ei table er protiti pashe tini darriyechen.)